A cozy house begins with a beautiful facade. An affordable and easy way to outdoor decoration - do-it-yourself siding installation.
Advantages and disadvantages
There are many requirements for facing materials for outdoor work. They must be lightweight, strong, durable, aesthetically pleasing, easy to use and cheap. Few materials are able to satisfy all the points of this (incomplete, since in fact the requirements are more diverse) of the list. But siding falls into the category of those closest to the best option. It performs both protective and decorative functions at the same time. At the same time, the cost of the material is quite acceptable.
Its unique properties are explained by production technology. The basis is taken of high quality raw materials, the composition of which is carefully calculated by the technologists according to the component ratio. Then this raw material is processed on expensive high-tech equipment and undergoes quality control at several stages.
Each type of siding uses its own type of raw material and its manufacturing technology.
Each panel consists of several layers. The inner layer provides stability to individual panels and the entire structure as a whole. It, in turn, may consist of several thinner layers. And the outer layer is resistant to atmospheric phenomena. It is decorative.
The thickness of the siding depends on how it was produced. Basically, this division of methods is true for vinyl and basement siding.
- The first method is monoextrusive. It implies that the siding panel is made of one type of mixture (compound). In the heated state, the mixture passes through a profiling hole, which tells it the desired shape, and then it cools, while maintaining it.
- The second way is coextruded. Compounds here are used in quantities of two or more. This is determined by the required thickness and technical characteristics of the siding. He also goes through the layered process of molding in molds in stages and freezes in the desired position.
Hot production contributes to the fact that all the ingredients of the compound (base, stabilizers, modifiers, plasticizers, pigment particles) form a monolithic alloy.
This provides the following advantages of the facing material.
- Using different raw materials and different production technologies, a wide assortment line is obtained. A large number of types of siding allows you to sheathe the facade of the house with panels of different colors, properties and textures in accordance with the design idea and the climate.
- The material can be used for exterior and interior cladding.
- The relatively small weight of the panels makes it possible to mount siding on the facade of any type. It can be a concrete, brick, plastered, block, wooden facade. In this case, the operational state does not matter. The old tree will be completely blocked, and the crumbling plaster can be sanded without spending time and money to restore the layer.
- Siding helps to improve sound insulation and thermal insulation in the room. That is why it is used not only in private homes, but also for the decoration of municipal buildings, schools and kindergartens. This greatly saves heating costs in a large room.
- Suitable for facing summer cottages, apartment buildings, wooden cottages, farm buildings
- If necessary, it is convenient to lay waterproofing materials and insulation between the panels and the wall of the house.
- The material is convenient for installation work in one hand. The instructions from the manufacturer are understandable enough to start finishing, having no experience in the field of repair.
- Panels from different compounds do not crack when installing fasteners.
- The surface of most species is hydrophobic and washable.
- The material is resistant to freezing. This ensures its integrity in severe frosts, and also allows you to mount the walls with thermal break (a layer that protects the walls of the house from freezing and the formation of condensate with increasing temperature).
- High-quality siding panels have the same thickness along the entire length and uniform color.
- They do not fade in the sun, do not fade from water, since pigmented substances fuse with the rest at high temperatures.
- Different siding options in color and texture are combined with each other.
- Unlike natural wood, stone or facing bricks, siding is an economical finishing material, and its installation is less time-consuming.
- Provides a neat and beautiful view of the facade of the house for a long time. The duration of operation of the material with high quality is up to half a century.
- Easy dismantling during refinishing.
Disadvantages of facing siding.
- The key to quality is the integrity of the manufacturer. It is difficult to verify it, so product flaws are most often detected after repair.
- The brighter the panels are painted, the less resistant they are to fading from ultraviolet radiation.
- Impact resistance and resistance to mechanical stress has only metal siding.
- Each type of siding has its own limited color palette.
- To finish the facade requires a large number of panels. It is not always possible to purchase them from one batch, and products from different ones may differ from each other in shade of color.
- Most species are not fire resistant.
- High prices for components.
- The manufacturer’s warranty period for a product may change, or even be completely canceled when using components from other manufacturers.
Varieties of siding are conventionally classified according to several criteria: objects of application, material of manufacture, design of the top layer. In addition, the parts themselves for assembly vary in shape, thickness and size. So, for lining continuous surfaces of a large area, panels in the form of lamellas with a locking system will be needed, and for finishing corners, socles and other complex sections, these will be parts of a smaller size and complex shape.
The width of the siding can be single (the part consists of one strip), double (herringbone or “ship beam”), triple (one part consists of three stripes superimposed in the form of a “herringbone”).
Classification by objects of application implies division into siding for external, internal and intermediate finishing.
The material for the facade cladding of the building should be more resistant to fading, hydrophobic, frost resistance. For rooms on the street-house border, for example, non-insulated balconies, siding is required, which is distinguished by good tolerance of temperature differences. Impact resistance, resistance to mechanical stress, aesthetic qualities are important for interior decoration.
Siding is used when facing such objects:
- slopes and corners of the house;
- foundation and ground floor (specialized basement siding is produced for the finishing of basement floors);
- window decoration;
- construction of hedges;
- decoration of non-residential buildings (baths, garages, warehouses and others);
- facade cladding of the building (and here you need facade siding);
- decoration of balconies and loggias;
- Finishing of the veranda or terrace from the inside;
- vestibule premises in a private house between the entrance doors;
- decoration inside living quarters: kitchens, bathrooms, bathrooms, other types of rooms.
For interior decoration, the appearance of the panels, their size and direction, is important, so manufacturers produce not only horizontal, but also vertical siding. Among its advantages, in addition to the advantages of horizontal siding, there is also fire resistance. It is often a determining element for the choice of decorative finishes, since SNiP establishes its own fire resistance standards for materials for different types of rooms.
The building standards regulate the maximum permissible content of formaldehydes and toxic substances per 100 grams of the weight of the finishing material. Their number is indicated in the product passport as the emission class. For the interior decoration, only the first class is permissible; for the exterior, other types can also be used. Also, the material of the interior decoration has a more variable color scheme, and the vertical direction of the panels contributes to a visual change in the parameters of the room.
There are several types of siding on the construction market, differing in the material of manufacture:
For lay people, the idea of siding is limited to its varieties of polyvinyl chloride and plastic, and even metal products are already surprising. There is nothing strange in the fact that few have heard of acrylic siding. However, its technical characteristics are several times higher in quality than the characteristics of vinyl panels. It withstands a wider temperature range (from –50 to +70 Celsius), is less prone to fading, fire resistant, durable and has a service life of more than several tens of years.
The cost of acrylic siding, respectively, is higher than vinyl.
With a relatively light weight, it is more resistant to damage than other types of metal finish the facade of the house. The indisputable advantage of aluminum is also that it is not susceptible to corrosion. Rain, snow, washing are not afraid of him. On aluminum plates, paint is well placed, which retains its bright color and presentable appearance for a long time. It is less plastic than acrylic, and during construction this can become its drawback.
This is a “cheap and angry” option in relation to decorating the facade with facing brick or natural stone. Against the background of ordinary vinyl siding, it, of course, is more expensive and more complicated.
Concrete siding is made from cement-sand or cement-gypsum mixtures. Cement-based materials often require additional components to increase strength, so various fiber fibers are added to the composition as a reinforcing element. The hydrophobicity of the material is increased by plasticizers. Color pigments are responsible for the color. Since concrete siding is used as a substitute for stone, the color palette is limited to natural shades.
In addition to aesthetic qualities, concrete siding is distinguished by good performance characteristics. However, there are also disadvantages. Its heavy weight requires additional procedures to prepare the surface of the walls. They need to be strengthened by calculating the potential load.
The second disadvantage of concrete products is the fragility of the upper layer. With regular mechanical stress, chips and cracks appear on it.
The most common type of siding, which is made by mixing various components, heating them, and putting the compound into the mold. This is a practical and stylish solution for home decoration, but not always optimal. So for facing the foundation and the lower floor, vinyl siding may not be enough. It is recommended to use its variety - basement. It is more durable due to additional layers and components in the composition.
Another type of polyvinyl chloride material is “ship siding” (maybe metal). It is characterized by greater strength and moisture resistance, but at the same time remains flexible and convenient for work. A feature of such a siding is that it simulates the surface of a wood board for shipbuilding.
The manufacture of wood panels according to the technology resembles the production of chipboard or fiberboard, since it is based on finely divided wood fiber. In order for the material to become resistant to moisture and strength, additives and plasticizers are introduced into the mixture. A protective layer is applied on top. It allows you to save the color and structure of the tree from burnout, moisture, mechanical damage.
With the help of wooden siding, you can return a beautiful view to the facade of a house made of wood if it has lost its beauty over time. They are also often decorated with modern panel houses to give them a more aesthetic appearance.
Wood panels lose to panels made of plastic compound in terms of moisture resistance and metal siding - in fire resistance. Their service life is lower than that of plastic siding, and the price is slightly higher.
A rare type of siding. It makes it possible to beautifully clad the roof and facade of the building, while providing ventilation under the finishing material. This ensures that no fungus, mold, condensation appears on the facade of the house. However, there are several drawbacks. Copper is easy to deform during installation, it oxidizes and loses its attractive appearance under adverse weather conditions and constant precipitation.
The most complex type of panel in structure. It consists of five layers: a metal base, which provides stability and durability to the panels, a primer, a polymer layer, which is responsible for the texture and color of the siding, a protective varnish coating that prevents fading of the paint, a protective film. The top film is a temporary measure. It protects the panels from damage during transport and installation. It needs to be removed.
Metal siding is the most durable of all and is not subject to fire, but may eventually become unusable from constant exposure to moisture.
Such material is made of first class cement (which has less impurities) with the addition of fine sand, cellulose fibers, minerals, plasticizers and dyes. It imitates the texture of wood, facing bricks, stone and other materials for decorative decoration of the facade. It has flexibility, elasticity, hydrophobicity, burns poorly.
Often, for cement and fiber cement siding, an additional procedure is required - staining in the desired color.
The material has a number of disadvantages: it is expensive, weighs a lot, remains brittle, despite the reinforcing fiber fibers in the composition, and in the process, cement dust is formed, since 80-90% of the material consists of mineral components.
The decorative function of siding is very important, so manufacturers are expanding the product range every year. So, in the market you can find smooth and textured, color and neutral panels. Many of them mimic a more expensive coating.
Common options are siding with imitation of brick, natural stone, expensive wood (in the form of timber, boards and logs), glossy and matte, white and color panels.
Calculation of the amount of materials
The prefabricated structure of any type of siding consists of a large number of elements. Accessories differ in shape, thickness, method of attachment and purpose.
In addition to the panels themselves, additional fittings will be needed. Consider them from the lower level (foundation) in the process of finishing to the upper (roof).
To protect and give the foundation an aesthetic appearance, basement siding is used. Its peculiarity is that it is not oblong and narrow panels 3-4 meters long, but wider and shorter details. They are interconnected as pieces of a puzzle. The decorative surface of the basement siding often copies the finish with natural stone.
The upper edge of the foundation, as a rule, protrudes forward by several centimeters (and sometimes by several tens of centimeters). In order to make the construction look solid and free from gaps, the top of the basement siding and part of the foundation are finished with a “low tide”. This detail resembles a small step in shape and connects the foundation and the wall of the building's facade.
The transition element from the "low tide" to the wall cladding is carried out using an element called the starting bar. It locks in place the lower siding panel of large length.
The next obstacle to the longitudinal panels is window openings. To finish them, you will need batten battens, a finishing profile (acts as a groove into which the decorative part is inserted, and the window profile or platband itself (it is a decorative element). The platband can be smooth or carved.
The transition from the profile to the longitudinal panels is again carried out using low tide and starting strips.
Such problem areas as internal and external corners require special attention. For them, parts with the corresponding names are provided in the configuration - inner corner and outer corner. There are also parts called J-corner or J-bar and F-corner, which cover problem areas such as cornices and connecting lines between platbands and the facade wall. When the panel length is not enough for the entire length of the wall, a connecting part is used - an H-profile. The designer finishes the horizontal bar from horizontal or vertical siding panels.
J-profile provides a transition from the wall of the house to the roof and is needed to install spotlights and overhangs. The protruding part of the roof slope (bottom) is covered by a wind board or spotlight. These parts are perforated on the surface so that air can circulate under the roof.
When all components are identified, their quantity must be calculated. It should be as accurate as possible so that all elements fit together without gaps and crevices. Otherwise, you will need to manually adjust, and this is already difficult to do without experience in installation.
Calculating the amount of material is not difficult. The main thing is to do it honestly, consistently and considering that the siding is not attached directly to the wall, but is fixed on a special crate from the profile. Sometimes you need to add the thickness of the insulation layer.
So, to find out how many panels and components are needed, it is necessary to measure the walls around the perimeter of the house, as well as all window and door openings.
Despite the fact that the opposite walls must be identical in construction, they are individually measured at two or three points in height and width. If the results are different at several points, you need to round in favor of a larger indicator.
The width is multiplied by the height and according to these data, specialists in the store will help determine the number of panels (given several in reserve), based on the width and length of one panel. That is, the total area of one wall is divided by the area of the panel, and the resulting number is equal to the amount of material on one wall.
For stock, you need to purchase 10-20% more material. Extra 10-20 panels will be able to cover the unforeseen expense of siding or fix installation errors. Many forget about spare parts, acquiring them only after they are really needed, but this is a mistake. Details from different parties in one way or another will not be absolutely identical in hue, thickness and characteristics, and on the facade this will be especially noticeable.
The area of window and doorways is subtracted from the total area of all walls. With triangular wall fragments is a bit more complicated. Here the base of the triangle and its height are measured. Then the "width" must be divided into two and multiplied by the "height".
Then you need to sketch the shape of the walls, windows and openings, signing all the values on them. This will help not to make mistakes in the calculations in consultation with a specialist.
It is not so difficult to calculate such additional elements as external and internal angles, J, F, H-profiles, starting and final trims, spotlights and wind boards. They are used in a straight line, which means that it is enough to find out its length. The resulting number is divided by the width of one part, and then another 10-15 percent is added to the material for unforeseen expenses. If an aperture or other obstacle is encountered on the use line, its dimensions are subtracted from the total length of the area, which is finished with additional elements.
When purchasing accessories and siding, do not forget that it is mounted on a special crate. The lath aligns the surface of the walls, which simplifies the installation of siding and allows you to create a gap between the finishing material and the wall of the house for ventilation. In some cases, additional insulation, protection against moisture and condensation is required, then the crate is used for laying additional materials.
For the crate, metal U-shaped suspensions, steel or wooden profiles, fasteners, self-tapping screws, improvised materials and tools are needed.
Metal products are universal, wooden are more suitable for use at a moderate level of humidity.
Profiles should have a plus or minus 60 cross section of 30 and a sufficient level of rigidity to support the weight of the structure.
The number of suspensions and profiles is determined depending on the step of the crate , that is, on the distance between adjacent parts of the frame. It should not exceed 40 cm for heavy materials and 60 for light. The width of the wall is divided by the width of the step, and the resulting number is equal to the number of profiles that must be installed on 1 wall.
Self-tapping screws are purchased at the rate of 1 piece for every 20 cm along the length of the profile and suspensions.
The set of tools for installing siding with your own hands is small, and its components can be found in almost any home.
First of all, we need devices for measuring the surface area under the cladding: a long ruler, a joiner's square, tape measure, colored crayons.
The next group of tools will be needed at the stage of installation of the metal (wooden) profile and suspensions. To correctly determine the starting line along the edge of the wall, from which the installation of suspensions begins, you need to use the building level. A simple plumb line is also suitable. The line must be drawn so that it is not smeared. For this, it is convenient to use a marker or bright chalk. To fix the suspensions and profiles on the wall you need a screwdriver. A hammer may come in handy.
Directly during the finishing work, you will need such tools: a grinder or a hacksaw with small teeth (cut siding into fragments of the desired length), a puncher, a rubber hammer, tools for dismantling unsuccessfully mounted panels.
Do not forget about protective equipment: comfortable clothing, gloves, glasses.
One of the main advantages of siding is that it is easy to "hide" a layer of insulation under it. This significantly saves heating costs in the cold season and maintains a comfortable temperature in the room year-round.
In order for the insulation to serve for a long time and efficiently, it is important to choose the right materials. This is not only the insulation itself, but also the intermediate layers that will protect the house and walls from the appearance of condensation, overheating and other problems that are possible with improper insulation.
Properties of good materials in the insulation layer:
- ability to pass air and "breathe";
- resistance to moisture and fire;
- resistance to freezing and temperature extremes;
- ability to improve sound insulation;
- environmental Safety;
The choice of insulation is the most crucial moment. Consider materials with suitable properties.
- Extruded polystyrene foam (sometimes called penoplex). In fact, it is the last generation of foam. Since the foam of the old sample begins to crumble within 5-10 years (and the siding serves many times longer), it quickly loses its effectiveness as a heater. But polystyrene foam has all the necessary qualities. It is moderately dense, porous, light (does not load the profiles), cheap, durable, resistant to moisture, allows the walls to breathe (if not mounted tightly), protects from the cold in winter and does not create a “steam room” in the house in summer, and perfectly damps extraneous noise from the street.
- Mineral plate (cotton wool). It is characterized by high density and strength with a small thickness, meets the requirements of building codes, provides ventilation, bioresistant, improves the insulating properties of the house sheathing. But mineral insulation also has drawbacks: in the absence of waterproofing and moisture getting on it, the material loses up to 70% of its heat-insulating properties. Accumulates dust over time. Only low-quality mineral wool is cheap, and a good amount will have to spend a round sum.
Basalt cotton wool, glass wool and ecowool have similar properties, but they are more often used for insulation indoors.
- PPU. Sprayed polyurethane foam is an effective insulation, but requires special equipment for application. Since the mass is applied to the wall in liquid form, it can be used before mounting suspensions and profiles, due to which “islands of cold” will not form in the structure. But when spraying PPU on the wall there is no ventilated gap. The wall will not breathe. Otherwise, this material is superior to others in its technical characteristics.
- Foam glass. A worthy alternative to sprayed PPU. Work with foam glass is easier due to the fact that the material is sheet. It has a porous structure, low weight, high insulating qualities, resistance to moisture, rot and fire, is able to breathe, is easily cut into fragments of the desired thickness, and does not shrink over time. Its service life exceeds the service life of many types of siding. Its significant drawback is the high cost. But if it is possible to make expensive cladding, it is better to use foam glass than other materials.
- Foiled sheet heaters. Such materials, as a rule, have a porous structure and are made of varieties of polystyrene foam, and are sealed on top in a reflective “shell”. This gives them an indisputable advantage - the ability of the insulation to retain heat in the house at sub-zero temperatures and the ability to prevent overheating of the room from the inside at high temperatures outside.
Do not forget about waterproofing and vapor barrier. These layers, insignificant in thickness, extend the life and increase the effectiveness of the insulation, but their absence in most cases reduces the effectiveness of the material to nothing.
Waterproofing is a layer of thin PVC film or other thin sheet material that overlays on top of the insulation. That is, it is located between it and the siding and is necessary in order to prevent moisture from entering the insulation.
The vapor barrier is also made of a sufficiently thin material, which is mounted on the back side - between the insulation and the wall of the house.
To work with these materials, you will need scissors or a sharp knife (to cut fragments for hard-to-reach spots), a construction tape and a construction stapler.
The material is purchased with a margin of 20%, since it is necessary to stack it with an overlap of 15 to 30 cm.
When all materials have been selected and purchased, it is time to proceed with the installation. The technology is universal for all types of siding, the work is carried out in stages.
- The first stage is preparatory. It is carried out after all measurements and calculations, so we exclude them from the list of actions. What really needs to be done as a preparation is to inspect all wall surfaces, especially complex sections, for defects, irregularities, interfering elements. They are recommended to be removed so as not to injure insulation materials and panels. The “influxes” of cement mortar in the masonry must be carefully chopped with a hammer, all “creases” on the foundation are also aligned. It’s important not to overdo it. Sticking out nails and fragments of reinforcement should be bitten off with nippers or bent and driven into the wall. Chipping and sanding the remaining layers of plaster. Old surfaces can be additionally primed so that they are not covered with fungus under a layer of insulation and facing material.
- The second stage is the vapor barrier device. It consists of several steps: cleaning the walls of the old coating, if any, processing cracks and gaps on the surface of the walls, drying the walls. Laying a vapor barrier on wet walls makes no sense. This is nothing.
For vapor barrier it is better to choose foil sheet materials of small thickness. They roll out from the bottom up and are fixed on the wall with a preliminary fastening in the form of adhesive tape. A little later, when the crate is mounted, it will fix the material firmly and reliably.
- The third stage is the installation of the crate. For the version with insulation, it will be the first of two and is made of distance bars. For the version without insulation, this crate is the first and last, consists of suspensions and profiles. Most often, universal metal profiles are chosen, and non-professionals have a question: what is the use of insulation if there are still large heat losses through the crate? The way out is to lay paronite gaskets or basalt cardboard under the profile at the attachment points. Mounting brackets will help to fix them.
The design of the crate is recommended to be mounted in accordance with the type of siding. For horizontal, one scheme, for another vertical. In both cases, you need to start from the edge and first set the guides. Their location should be strictly vertical or strictly horizontal, and the line is drawn using a level or plumb line. Otherwise, the siding will not stand up as it should or curvature will be noticeable.
- The fourth stage is warming. The material is laid in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. In this case, it is impossible to deform it, since it can lose its properties.
- The fifth stage is the installation of waterproofing. This material (without interference) should cover the entire insulation. Top and bottom it must be carefully fixed, and the width of the sheet material is laid with an overlap. Often, manufacturers mark the boundary line on the waterproofing film - the overlap should be no less than what it indicates. It is fixed with a stapler and scotch tape. Next is the installation of the second crate.
- The sixth stage is the casing. It requires compliance with three simple rules that will ensure the success of the event:
- Extremely tight fasteners are not required. When tightening the locks between parts, it is important to leave a small gap of about 1 mm. This will protect the material from cracking, as well as simplify the dismantling process in the future.
- Mounting should be done in the middle of the mounting windows, and not along the edges.
- Do not drive the trim panels into the fittings all the way; it is better to leave a small gap.
Sheathing is necessary by performing actions in this sequence.
- Dismantling of gutters, door leafs, platbands from window openings.
- Lathing (including insulation). The extreme lag should be installed exactly at the corner of the wall.
- The starting bar is mounted (above, at the base of the pediment). Then the outer corners, the aquilon and the starting profile. The initial board is inserted into the grooves until it clicks, then you need to check the play (1-2 mm stroke). If it is observed, fasteners can be installed.
- Similarly, the remaining panels are mounted. A check for backlash is mandatory for each panel.
- Along the way, window and doorways, internal corners, and other elements are formed by siding.
- The last panel is applied without fixing to determine whether it needs to be customized. Then the final bar or J-profile is mounted, and the board is already inserted and latched into it.
- Sheathing of the pediment (the triangular part of the wall under the roof slopes). It is somewhat more complicated than facing a rectangular wall. It is important to observe two nuances: trim the ends of the boards exactly along the slope of the corner of the wall, fix the ends of the boards in the J-profile (a regular finishing strip will not hold). Otherwise, the essence of technology remains unchanged.
- Covering of eaves. It is carried out according to the scheme specified by the manufacturer. For high-quality installation, it is necessary to use special eaves moldings, profiles and perforated spotlights.
In this way, you can clad the house yourself with siding, without spending a lot of time on it.
Before installing siding panels with your own hands, you should study all the subtleties and features of the process in order to avoid common mistakes. They will subsequently cause many problems, affect the efficiency and life of the siding and insulation.
The main mistake is the incorrect calculation of materials and the lack of spare (which is rarely unnecessary) parts. As a result, the alleged skin without flaws turns into a lining with obvious defects. Not only does this affect the aesthetics of the facade, but also the tightness of the coating is deteriorating. This creates a risk of moisture entering the intermediate layers and damage to the insulation.
The second most popular mistake of self-taught installers is not to use waterproofing. And if polyurethane foam still survives such treatment, mineral wool will inflate, begin to put pressure on the siding and lose up to 80% efficiency.
An equally gross mistake is to mount the panels close to the extreme wall and snap the locks all the way. Siding is made of materials that narrow and expand under the influence of ambient temperature. If you do not leave a backlash of a few millimeters, it will simply crack in the first severe frosts.
It is not recommended to screw the screws into the “body” of the panel. For mounting, it has a perforated side. The screw is screwed into the center of the hole, and not at the edge. It is forbidden to fix structural parts from the outside with non-galvanized (rusting) nails. Rust will come out on the panels, and they will stay worse.
The last mistake is not gross, but it is also better not to make it. It's about using glossy panels. Yes, they look better, but not for long. And they heat up faster than matte ones.
Beautiful cladding examples
- A variety of types of siding by material, shape, color and texture makes it possible to implement design decisions in the design of the facade. For example, installing single matte siding in light shades has already become a classic solution. Installation of a colored Christmas tree in a double or triple version will make the facade concise, but bright, as is characteristic of modern design trends.
- Beautifully, soundly and expensively look at houses and cottages, sheathed with basement siding from the foundation to the roof. Modern fiber cement siding reproduces the relief and texture of natural stone and brick as accurately as possible, so it will be difficult to distinguish such a stylization from real stone.
- Wood decoration is always relevant for a private house. Light siding will fit perfectly into the Provence style, darker shades and imitation of raw wood will be appropriate in the country style. “Ship beam” with a pronounced texture and siding, imitating expensive wood species, will recreate the elite classic design in a modern interpretation.
How to mount your own siding, see the video below.