Despite the fact that garden lilies are perennials, it is undesirable to grow them in the same place for several years in a row. The frequency of transplants is determined by the type of flower. Some varieties should change their place after many years, others - much more often. In tubular and Asian varieties of lilies, bulbs multiply rapidly, and they need to change their place every year.
Why do I need a transplant?
This culture is growing rapidly, young shoots are actively growing and they have little space. The tightness of planting leads to a decrease in peduncles, shredding of flowers, and over time, flowering completely stops.
In addition to strong growth, there are many reasons for changing the place of a decorative perennial. It can stop in growth, get sick with a fungal or other infection, rot, become covered with dead leaves. Periodic transplantation and the use of fresh land will help prevent plant disease.
An equally important reason is monitoring the condition of the bulbs. If one root has rotted, then it is more likely that the problem will spread to others that grow too close.
With developmental deficiencies, it is a transplant that will identify problems.
Transplantation is required if the bulb is pulled deep into the ground with its highly expanded root system and the green shoots can hardly break to the surface. Many of them cannot get out from under the soil.
Transplantation is also necessary for those varieties of lily culture that are unable to tolerate low winter temperatures in open ground. Before the onset of cold weather, they are dug up, stored in the most suitable conditions, and again planted in the open ground in spring.
In which month is it better to transplant?
You can transplant lilies from one place to another in spring, summer and autumn. In which month it is best to spend it, flower growers decide for themselves. Each season has its adherents and opponents, and the expert opinion on this subject is different. But most experienced gardeners prefer the spring season. Bulbs transplanted in the spring significantly overtake in the development of those planted in the fall or overwintered in frozen ground.
If you adhere to certain recommendations of specialists, then replanting the bulbous perennial and subsequent care in the open field will not be difficult. Planting material excavated in October will be ready for transplanting in the open spring in the spring, if it is carefully preserved in the winter.
Bulb storage conditions
There are various ways of storing bulbs until spring:
- in the fridge;
- in the cellar;
- in the basement;
- in a dark cupboard;
- on the loggia or on the balcony;
- in the garage.
For better preservation of the qualities of planting material, the place where they will be laid should be:
- well ventilated;
- not too dry;
- without excessive humidity;
- with optimal temperature.
It is possible to transplant a plant to a new site only when the soil warms up to 8-10 degrees of heat. This temperature, depending on the region, occurs from the end of April to the second half of May.
The weather should be established with a favorable and stable temperature regime.
One should be wary of the return of frosts that could damage the growth of lilies. Freezing is unlikely during this period, but when the cold weather sets in, the transplant site should be reliably covered with a greenhouse film.
Garden lily is unpretentious to care after transplanting. If you follow the basic rules, then the lush flowering will not take long. Only the first flowering will not live up to expectations, however, after a year, the flower bed will be filled with plentifully blooming lilies.
Transplanted to sunny and windless parts of the garden, lilac perennials bloom better than those growing in dark places. In instances growing in partial shade, flowering is not bright enough.
The soil is preferred with a loose structure. Light loams are most suitable. Sandy, dry and dense clay soils are not suitable for planting lilies. The transplant site should be located on a small elevation, where there is no stagnation of rainwater. In the swampy lowlands, the bulbs rot.
The conditions for the growth of a garden beauty will improve significantly if drainage is arranged on such a site. For this, ditches with a layer of crushed brick or small gravel laid at the bottom are dug under a slope, coarse-grained sand is poured on top and covered with soil.
Liliaceae do not take root on acidic soils. The soil in the area where they will be transplanted must be neutral or slightly acidic.
If necessary, the acidity of the soil is adjusted by liming with slaked lime, chalk or dolomite flour. You can use ground egg shells for this purpose, then the soil will be additionally enriched with potassium and calcium, which are able to maintain the brightness of flowering.
Spring transplant process
Spring preparation of soil for transplanting old plants to a new place begins with digging it to a depth of about 40 cm and applying the necessary fertilizers. This creates optimal conditions for further lush flowering plants.
Depleted soil is fed by the introduction of rotted manure, potassium sulfate and superphosphate. These fertilizers are quite enough at the initial stage.
So, the soil is prepared. After this, it is necessary to inspect and select healthy bulbs. Those that were properly stored in the winter are easily adaptable to a new location. Sick, damaged and dried specimens are not recommended to be planted, they can become a source of all kinds of diseases.
Before planting the bulbs in the ground, they must be etched using a solution of any fungicide, growth stimulator or ordinary potassium permanganate. Suitable drugs "Vitaros", "Epin." Carefully lower the bulbs into the resulting solution for 30 minutes so that the liquid covers them completely.
The basic landing rules are as follows.
- Before planting, the roots are carefully cut off from the bulbs, leaving about 10 cm long, and then planted in the prepared holes.
- In the warm regions in spring you can transplant and overwintered bulbs in the ground. After digging, divide it and transplant. But it is important to catch up before the main stem reaches 10 cm.
- The earthball from the bulbs is not shaken off, but left for better survival of the plant. It is advisable to sprinkle the roots lightly in the hole with sand.
- Landing holes need to be dug approximately 20 cm apart. Maintain an equal distance will help marking, which will indicate the landing pattern.
- Bulbs are small, medium and large, and each has its own depth of planting in the ground. Small ones are planted to a depth of 15 cm, medium - 20 cm, large - 25 cm.
- It is advisable to place each onion in a special basket or wire mesh. This will protect the plant from rodents.
At the final stage, the area with transplanted lilies is covered with ordinary soil, carefully watered, mulched with peat or sawdust.
Mulch will prevent the rapid evaporation of moisture. Around the plants, you can scatter the crushed bark of coniferous plants or their fallen needles.
Fertilizer and care
All bulbs prefer to grow on rich soils. If during the transplantation the necessary amount of fertilizers is laid in the soil, then in the first year the flowers do not require additional fertilizing. And only as the soil is depleted in the spring, it should be fertilized several times.
- The first top dressing is carried out when sprouts are formed not less than 10 cm in height. After 10 days, the procedure is repeated.
- All lily perennials are extremely responsive to the application of mineral fertilizing. For good summer growth in the spring, they need nitrogen, which they absorb from the introduced ammonium nitrate or nitroammophos.
- The introduction of wood ash in the spring is also necessary for this decorative crop to protect it from pests. It can be applied once during watering or from time to time in a small amount throughout the season.
- Biohumus containing trace elements, enzymes, soil antibiotics, vitamins and growth hormones is very useful.
- It is strictly forbidden to use fresh manure. Bulbs rot from it, not yet beginning to bloom.
- To prevent disease about three times a year, bulbous perennials must be sprayed with a solution of 1% Bordeaux fluid.
- 2 weeks before flowering, you need to carry out root dressing on the basis of any liquid mineral fertilizer for flowering plants.
- During bud formation, kalimagnesia is used.
- After flowering ends, lilies need another additional nutrition with a solution of superphosphate.
In order for green sprouts to sprout faster, plants need regular and plentiful moisture with a deep penetration of moisture into the soil, which after irrigation should be loosened for good air circulation. Otherwise, scales may rot.
The grown weeds are removed and each week they are treated against fungal infections with 0.2% Fundazole solution. Insecticides and a soapy solution will help against pests.
If you properly care for lilies, adhere to the recommendations, timing and frequency of transplantation, depending on the variety and conditions of detention, then you can enjoy the magnificent flowering of these exotic beauties and their unique aroma for a long time.
About how to plant lilies in the spring, see below.