Among the many finishing methods, it is siding that plays a large role. But this material is not always strong enough, the only exception is the metallic version of the coating. It has several types of execution and should be mounted strictly according to special technology, which deserves a special review.
The use of metal siding is designed not only to protect the facade from the damaging effects of the environment, but also to provide a pleasant appearance of the surface. Siding coverage allows the house to stand for at least fifty years, and in the process of working with it, it is necessary to use not only strips, but also additional elements.
Rolled constructions should be chosen because they are stiffer mechanically and less dangerous in terms of injury.
- “Shipboard” is not so randomly named, because its appearance is similar to the material used for lining wooden ships. Specialists consider the advantage of this design to be simple installation and ease of subsequent operation. The panels resist fire and are environmentally friendly, up to 6 m in length. The initial layer is a lightweight vertical frame.
- “Block House” looks like high-quality logs, and not only color and shape are reproduced, but also the texture of natural material. Unlike a natural log house, there is no need to treat the material with antiseptics or stain. Installation on top of the crate makes it possible to insulate the structure additionally; the structure is light and the load on the wall, as well as the foundation is relatively small. Installation is possible in any season of the year.
- Eurobar is a metal analogue of profiled timber and far exceeds it in terms of fire safety. You can put this type of blocks both vertically and horizontally. Individual ordering helps to save money, because it excludes cutting, fitting panels to exact dimensions and waste disposal of cut parts.
- The “Crown” option is distinguished by increased mechanical strength and excellent resistance to fire. It allows you to correct any defects in structures, and even when the weather constantly tests the surface of the house for strength, the appearance is preserved very well.
Features of the calculation
The most important feature of calculating the need for metal siding is its great complexity. It is almost always worth contacting specialists, since any measurements and miscalculation using an online calculator are not reliable enough.
Most accurately, the working area can be measured only after the crate is laid - it is then that the length and height of the walls are calculated.
Necessary materials and tools
Accessories for the installation of metal siding must be fully available by the beginning of the work. There is the possibility of replacing screws with nails, but steel options will not work - only galvanized. The need to buy self-tapping screws with gaskets arises only when the sheets are fixed through. Then the rubber will not allow water to penetrate into the place of the cut, and even more so, to seep deep into.
It is recommended to choose fasteners to match the tone of the base material so that they are fully combined and form an attractive look.
To paint a profile under a log or in another desired appearance, not all types of paints are useful. The best solution is to purchase a decorative composition directly with siding. In most cases, repair paint is sold in containers of 100, 200 and 1000 g - it is designed to paint minor scratches or to close the cut. To apply such a composition, you need a match, you can replace it with a cotton swab. A special dye lies on a galvanized layer, and in addition it perfectly resists ultraviolet rays; guides set in increments of 0.4 m, so calculating the desired number is quite simple.
Cutting metal siding by the exact size should be made immediately at the time of purchase. Despite its resistance to weathering, it is better to store this material under a canopy, and ideally in a dry, well-ventilated room. It is forbidden to put even small and light objects on sheets to avoid damage. You should carefully check how smooth the surface for connecting the blocks is.
It is unacceptable to mount sheets and panels all the way, because then even insignificant in the general case thermal expansion can deliver unpleasant surprises.
Step-by-step mounting instructions
Work should begin with the cutting of material: strips and individual sheets. It is very important not to make mistakes at this stage, because then you will be able to use siding more economically and do the job properly. The metal film is supposed to be removed before installation. If it is exposed to ultraviolet light, then removing the coating will be very difficult. When working, you will need scissors or a saw to cut metal parts.
You cannot cut siding sheets with a grinder - you can easily deform the protective coating and provoke accelerated corrosion. Using a punch, it is easy to make additional holes for fasteners. Using the punch, you can stamp the holes, bending the metal after cutting it. A screwdriver is used to attach the strips to the self-tapping screws, and when using nails a hammer is needed.
The need for a rivet gun arises only when the rivets are inserted into simple external corners.
It is also necessary to use nozzles on drills to screw self-tapping screws with a seal. Using brackets is not too rational, as experts consider them not reliable enough. For measurements, roulettes with fabric strips are preferable, since a metal tape can accidentally scratch the measured panel - rust can appear very soon, and the strong material as a whole will lose its quality. It is advisable to use long levels or laser tools - they are more expensive, but more convenient to use.
For the same reason as in the case of roulette, metal squares are worse than plastic and wooden options. The workers' own safety is ensured by goggles and gloves, because unprotected hands are very easily damaged by tools, sharp metal edges and other dangerous objects.
The processing order is as follows:
- starting strips;
- especially difficult angles located inside or outside, complicated connector strips;
- ordinary stripes;
- simple angles and connector;
Both metal and vinyl siding are placed on the wall starting from the lower links and gradually moving up.
Such a subsystem as a crate is designed to ensure the strength of the foundation for the front coating. In the interval between the profiles, materials are often laid that protect against moisture and heat escape. The crate is made of wood and metal, both types differ in their strengths and weaknesses. Since attracting specialists is quite expensive, it is better to study the problem carefully and do the work yourself. The wood is environmentally friendly and makes it easy to install metal strips on top, but it is not durable enough, so the investment will be quickly lost.
It is advisable to take a beam measuring 5x5 cm, and the moisture content of the tree is necessarily estimated - it should not exceed 14%. Before starting work, responsible owners or experienced builders always process natural material with flame retardants and antiseptics. The metal frame is created either on GKL profiles, or on ventilated runs that facilitate the passage of air inside. The definition of the gap is based on the specifics of the building and the type of siding: usually it is 30 cm, and only in isolated situations it is necessary to increase the gap to 0.5 m.
The laths of the battens are placed on the lower and upper edges of the house, on the corners and on the joints of the walls. When installing the siding vertically, the fastening step rushes horizontally. Where there are openings for doors and windows, the rails should be mounted one to the other so that the installation is correct and perfectly accurate.
Vapor barrier and waterproofing
Pieces of thermal insulation materials are placed in the gaps between the parts of the profile or wooden boards. Glass fiber is placed above them in the form of a film, thanks to which water will go outside, but not get into the insulation. The vapor barrier layer is attached to the wooden frame with a stapler, and glued to the profile. In both cases, the joints are covered with tape. When working, they carefully monitor that the insulating vapor film does not stretch excessively and does not sag even slightly; only after completion of insulation work does the technology allow the installation of facial material to begin.
They begin to assemble the external siding layer, determining as precisely as possible the place where the original strip should be fixed. Look for this place, setting the lowest point of the house in relation to the horizon. According to the construction level, they make a straight line 3-4 cm above such a point - this will be the line for the lower edge of the first strip. To fix the siding over the basement of the building is possible only with the use of spillways. Such designs are made to order, and the preparation of the sketch and establishing the exact dimensions depend on the customer.
Docking can be done without a gap between the slats, close. The rate of thermal expansion of the metal is much lower than even the best versions of plastic and vinyl. The only gaps that are performed are required for greater comfort for workers so that they do not scratch the metal during installation and do not get injured themselves. To work with complex additional elements begin only after fixing the original bar. Self-tapping screws or nails are recommended to be mounted with a gap of 20-30 cm.
The rapprochement of the fasteners is due to the fact that complex structural parts are worse attached and more capricious. Only this technique allows you to avoid their sudden exit from the wall and the violation of the integrity of siding in general. It is recommended to find out in advance what is the size of the angle in the products of a particular manufacturer - this will allow you to dock the installed blocks correctly.
It is advisable to use simple angles, as they:
- relatively cheap;
- easy to do with your own hands;
- without extra problems are replaced when the need arises.
At this phase of the work, it is also necessary to sheathe openings for doors and windows using slope strips or a combination of platband with low tide. The width of the structure is selected taking into account the depth of the recesses and how large the thickness of the lathing is. Cast parts are placed at the bottom of the windows. It makes sense to assemble the composition so that all the planks in the various doors and windows are on the same level, then the appearance of the facade will become symmetrical and pretty beautiful. The fastening of ordinary strips is done in the same way as in the case of vinyl panels: each block that is next in height is pushed onto the previous one until it clicks.
To connect the strips, experts recommend the use of complex H-ligaments or simplified strips. But it is quite possible with the skin to abandon these two elements and put overlapping stripes. Cutting the lock on one of the sides of the siding block helps to increase the stability of the connection. Wood finishing involves the use of only blocks with oval technological holes. Before starting work, the wood is treated with all the caulking stones that are possible, because there will no longer be such a chance.
As fasteners, experts recommend using dish-shaped dowels. It is necessary to cut metal siding with an electric jigsaw strictly on an even, strong plane - only this condition will help to avoid deformation. It is best to set the control knob to the first position at minimum speed. Use a metal saw extremely carefully, without making sudden movements. It is advisable to ensure that no one and nothing distracts in the process.
Observing these simplest rules, you can choose the most suitable type of metal siding and competently apply it, making an elegant facade for your home in the shortest possible time.
You can see more details on how to prepare the facade for the installation of siding in the next video.