Climbing roses often become the main decoration of the garden. They can be an element of garden composition, participate in group plantings, be used as a hedge, however, to grow such a beautiful bush is not so simple. For this, amateurs are invited to start growing with the simplest variety - “Sympathy”.
The climbing rose itself is a flowering garden plant, which is the result of the crossing of rose hips and some varieties of roses with long shoots. "Sympathy" is considered one of the most popular varieties, as it is characterized by unpretentiousness in care, as well as an aesthetic appearance.
The variety was bred in the second half of the 20th century; it is a large-flowered re-flowering plant.
An adult bush grows to 5 meters, its diameter can reach 2 meters. Such a voluminous bush can be used to decorate a fence, arch, wall. Therefore, when landing, it is necessary to prepare a stable and strong support. The flowers of this variety have a rich scarlet color, their structure can be compared with terry, the diameter of one bud reaches 10 cm. Their aroma is very pleasant. Flowers grow quite densely, each with 20-25 petals.
The impressive fluffy greens and massive flowers look very beautiful in the exterior of the garden. Like all other climbing roses, Sympathy is growing quite quickly and for a long time. The beginning of flowering occurs in early June, the bush fades with the advent of cooling. The peak of flowering occurs in the first wave, with repeated flowering, the bush does not bloom so abundantly.
The advantages of the variety include resistance to ultraviolet rays - the petals do not fade in the sun. After rain, there are no marks or streaks on the buds. The culture tolerates frosts or a sharp change in the temperature regime quite steadily. Not particularly susceptible to disease and pests.
The cultivation of the presented variety is possible not only in a warm climate, but also in the middle lane. True, in the second case, the plant must be insulated for the winter. When choosing a site, it is recommended to choose a place that is well lit by the sun. Under such conditions, the first flowers may appear as early as next year. If roses are grown to decorate any object, then you need to plant them at a distance of 50 cm from the right place.
It is best to start planting in the fall, then the first sprouts will begin to develop even before the frost. In the case of spring planting, the first flowers will have to wait much longer, moreover, the planted plant in the spring requires more serious care. When landing, use the following recommendations.
- Soak the planting material for one day.
- Divide the sprouts and roots into two buds.
- Dig a hole with a diameter of 50 cm.
- Fill the prepared pit with fertilizers. To do this, you can use manure, superphosphate, lime, wood resin.
- Bury the roots in the ground to a level of at least 10 cm.
- If several specimens are planted, then keep a distance of at least a meter between shoots.
- At the end of the planting, the part of the bush that remained above the ground should be eliminated by 20 cm.
This procedure will ensure the active growth of the culture.
If the rose is grown using the cuttings of the previous plant, then you need to follow these steps.
- Start propagating flowers from mid-summer. For this, both summer and winter cuttings are suitable, cut from healthy plants immediately after flowering.
- Each stalk must have at least four buds. All leaves are removed from below.
- Prepare a container for growing. It can be a box or a pot.
- Fill the container with a substrate, for example, sand and earth in a centimeter layer.
- Plant the cuttings in the resulting soil and cover them with a glass jar.
- Clean in a shaded place; as the soil dries, irrigate.
As mentioned above, the care of the variety is not particularly difficult, however, some rules of cultivation should still be known.
Watering and loosening
The culture refers to species that can easily tolerate drought, so this rose does not need frequent and plentiful watering. It is recommended to pour 1-2 buckets of water under the bush once every 7 days. Gardeners advise organizing a trunk circle with a sand fence on the site so that water does not flow through the territory. It is better to water the plant with settled water.
So that after the irrigation procedure the soil does not harden, it should be loosened and mulched. For mulch peat, sawdust, tree bark are suitable. These materials will ensure the preservation of a humid atmosphere around the bush, and also will not allow weeds to germinate. If you mulch the near-stem circle, then you can water the culture even less often.
Fertilizer and fertilizer
If during planting to lay a large amount of mineral fertilizers and organic matter in the ground, then the first couple of years you can not feed the bush, it will have enough useful elements. They begin to feed the plant in the third year. A crop responds well to manure or wood ash.
In autumn, it is recommended to make top dressing, which includes potassium. Suitable as universal store-bought fertilizers designed for flowering crops, as well as conventional wood ash. You should also nourish the bush with phosphorus, sodium, calcium. All these elements will allow the rose to survive the winter. The most favorable time for feeding is spring.
And when the bush begins to blossom, do not fertilize.
Garter and Trim
A garter for any climbing plant is a must. As a support, any hedge, fence, wall, arch, trellis is suitable. You can design the device yourself, for example, in the form of a lattice. A support is installed 50 cm from the shoot. It is recommended to systematically inspect the structure and make sure that under the weight of the overgrown branches it does not fall and does not harm the bush.
Experts do not recommend tying all the lashes up, otherwise all the flowers will be on top. Some of the main shoots need to be tied up horizontally, giving the bush a more aesthetic shape. For garter, gardeners are advised to use plastic twine. It is good because it does not cause damage to the bush.
In spring and autumn, pruning is required. In spring, dry and diseased branches should be eliminated, as well as the ends of the branches removed to a strong external bud. In autumn, you need to eliminate faded buds and thin out the stems. After the fourth year, the bush needs a cardinal pruning, since by the fifth year the flowering of the main shoots of this variety is weakening.
The grafted seedlings poorly develop the root system in the first two years, but if the dogrose was used as a stock, the opposite effect is observed - the roots grow strongly, and therefore, the shoot must also be periodically eliminated.
If a rose of this variety is planted in a cold region, then it needs to be sheltered for the winter. Before this, in the fall, old branches are cut off, the bush is thinned out. Already in the first half of autumn, preparing the plant for winter, they stop watering it. Fallen leaves are collected under the bush and treated with a disinfectant. Next, you must carefully remove the branches from the support, lower them to the ground and fix. In this case, it is better not to lay the plant on the ground. Then the rose is covered with a film or fir branches. All manipulations are carried out in dry weather.
You can cover the bush without removing it from the support. To do this, a twig is placed around the plant using twine, and agrofibre is wrapped on top of it. Try not to force the covering material against the shrub so that this does not interfere with the air circulation. The film is removed after the thaw.
The near-stem circle also needs protection; a dense layer of peat with earth can be filled into it.
Diseases and Pests
This variety is quite resistant to the formation of diseases and pest attacks, but if these problems could not be avoided, then use the following recommendations.
- If the plant attacked the aphids, then it can be defeated with a soap solution. If spraying with the composition did not help, then an insecticidal preparation is used.
- If the leaves have a bluish tint, they dry and wither, and there is a cobweb on the underside, then the bush has become a victim of a spider mite. The situation will be saved by spraying with infusion of wormwood, yarrow or tobacco. Of the special preparations, gardeners recommend the use of Fitoverm.
- To protect the culture from the attack of insects, you can plant marigolds nearby, their smell repels pests. As a preventive measure, you can spray the bush with Bordeaux liquid in spring and autumn.
- If, with the advent of spring, brown spots are noticed on the leaves, which darken over time and form a ring around the shoot, then it can be assumed that the plant became infected with the fungal coniotirium disease. Until the disease has destroyed the bush, it is necessary to cut off the damaged shoots along with the healthy part and burn. To prevent this disease, do not apply fertilizer containing nitrogen in the fall.
- A whitish coating, gradually darkening, indicates the formation of another disease - powdery mildew. It is necessary to eliminate the infected branches, and treat the bush with a solution of copper (2%) or iron (3%) vitriol. As prevention, spraying with soda ash and soap is suitable.
Experienced agronomists, as well as novice gardeners speak very well about the variety "Sympathy". They like beautiful and lush flowers, very pleasantly fragrant. Such saturated scarlet roses are visible from afar. It is noted that the plant blooms for a long time, and also does not need to select a special place for growing. For example, a bush grows in conditions of frequent fog and with close proximity of groundwater. If the culture is frozen in a difficult climate, then it can be easily rehabilitated with the help of a garden var and sections of the affected areas.
See the next video for more on the Sympathy climbing rose.